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Days before their October 5 Paris Fashion Week show, Kiko Kostadinov womenswear designers Laura and Deanna Fanning told ELLE the spring/summer 2027 collection marks a turn toward a ‘clean, graphic’ aesthetic. The London-based label, founded as menswear in 2016, has built a devoted following among artists and intellectuals.
Days before their October 5 show at Paris Fashion Week, sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, the womenswear designers at Kiko Kostadinov, said the brand’s upcoming spring/summer 2027 collection marks a deliberate shift toward a “clean, graphic” aesthetic — a break, they told ELLE, from the transparency-driven silhouettes of recent seasons. The interview offers the fullest picture yet of how the label’s famously devoted following came to be, and where its design language is heading next.
Kiko Kostadinov, a Bulgarian designer based in London, founded the namesake label as a menswear brand in 2016. In 2018, Australian twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning — both Central Saint Martins graduates, and Deanna is Kiko’s wife — launched the womenswear line and have led it since, with Kiko giving them what Deanna described as free rein from the start. The womenswear business has become known in part for footwear collaborations, including with ASICS.
The fall/winter 2026 collection, already shown in Paris, displayed the house’s signature approach: garments with geometric lines and layered historical references, including a bomber jacket with triangular modernist epaulets and a V-neck cardigan maxi dress with detachable oversize sleeves and a bicolor hood. According to the sisters, the label’s womenswear has built a cult following among artists and intellectuals drawn to clothing that, in their description, doesn’t fit the mold — a uniform of niche trousers, flat shoes, and unexpected textural knits, mixing utility with a sci-fi element.
For spring/summer 2027, the designers said they studied the work of visual artist Nanda Vigo, whose ambient installations used light to delineate space, with the aim of reinterpreting that idea on the body. “So far, we feel like the collection is looking very clean, very graphic,” Deanna told ELLE, calling it the pair’s own version of minimalism — “which won’t be minimal for others.”
Why the Label’s Devoted Following Matters
Kiko Kostadinov’s womenswear occupies a distinctive position in contemporary fashion: a small independent label whose pieces — often reading as at once medieval and futuristic — have generated the kind of identification usually reserved for far larger houses. That following has translated into a durable business anchored by collaboration footwear, and it demonstrates demand for technically complex, conceptually driven clothing outside the mainstream luxury conglomerates.
The Fannings’ account also clarifies how the label’s aesthetic is built: through textile and color research (Deanna’s knitwear background, Laura’s focus on silhouette), an openness to disorienting the viewer, and a resistance to costume. “I always think it’s interesting to disorient someone because that means that someone’s not so comfortable, so you’re challenging their perception,” Laura said. The sisters’ claim that their new graphic direction will read as minimalism only on their own terms sets a measurable test for how the devoted audience responds when the collection walks on October 5.
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From School Uniforms to Studio Partnership
The twins grew up in Australia wearing school uniforms, an experience Laura partly credits for their obsession with footwear — recalling watching businessmen on trains and judging who had “great shoes” versus generic ones. Their Italian grandparents shaped their fondness for craftsmanship: the sisters remember family sending boxes of Italy-made clothes and shoes to Australia at a time when such pieces were nearly impossible to find there.
The two have worked together as long as they can remember, including an unsuccessful attempt to separate professionally in their late teens. “We tried it and hated it,” Laura said. When they joined Kiko Kostadinov in 2018, their earliest womenswear pieces drew from their master’s collections, and the sci-fi references that still define the line date to that period. One early piece they call a technical masterpiece — a lightweight nylon zip-up with sheer elastics and roughly 30 panels — was once requested for a Halloween party, a misreading of the work they now laugh about.
“I always think it’s interesting to disorient someone because that means that someone’s not so comfortable, so you’re challenging their perception.”
— Laura Fanning, Kiko Kostadinov womenswear co-designer, to ELLE
What the New Collection Holds
The spring/summer 2027 collection had not been shown at the time of the interview; the sisters’ descriptions of it as “clean” and “graphic” are their own, and how the clothes will actually read on the runway remains to be seen. The extent to which the shift away from transparency-focused silhouettes represents a long-term change or a single-season experiment is not addressed. ELLE’s characterization of the brand’s following as a “cult” among artists and intellectuals is the magazine’s framing, attributed to the designers’ own account of their audience.
The October 5 Paris Debut
The Kiko Kostadinov spring/summer 2027 womenswear collection is set to be shown on October 5 at Paris Fashion Week, the first public test of the Fannings’ stated turn toward directness. Following the show, industry watchers will be watching reception from the label’s core audience, retail response, and whether the house’s ongoing collaboration business — including its ASICS partnerships — absorbs the new graphic direction. The label has not announced further dates or projects beyond the show.
Key Questions
Who designs Kiko Kostadinov womenswear?
Australian twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, Central Saint Martins graduates, have led the womenswear line since launching it in 2018. Founder Kiko Kostadinov, who started the label as menswear in 2016, gave them free rein over womenswear. Deanna is married to Kiko.
Why is the brand described as having a cult following?
According to ELLE and the designers’ own account, the womenswear line attracts artists and intellectuals open to clothing that departs from mainstream trends — mixing utility, sci-fi references, and layered historical allusions. A typical fan’s uniform is described as niche trousers, flat shoes, and an unexpected textural knit.
When is the next Kiko Kostadinov show?
The spring/summer 2027 womenswear collection is scheduled for October 5 at Paris Fashion Week.
What is new in the spring/summer 2027 collection?
The designers told ELLE the collection is a turn toward a clean, graphic aesthetic — their own “version of minimalism” — after several seasons focused on transparency and silhouette development. It draws on the light-based installations of artist Nanda Vigo.
What is Kiko Kostadinov known for besides runway collections?
The label is well known for footwear collaborations, including with ASICS, which the sisters link to their Australian upbringing and early fascination with shoes. Technical complexity, such as a roughly 30-panel nylon zip-up from an early season, is also a house signature.
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