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Paris Fashion Week SS27 is underway with 67 shows and 34 presentations, featuring Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent show, Matières Fécales’ first-ever runway at Place de la République, Glenn Martens’ return to Maison Margiela, and Anrealage’s 25th anniversary collection.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 is underway with 67 shows and 34 presentations on the calendar, and a mid-week roundup from Hypebae highlights the season’s standout moments so far — including Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent show after a decade as creative lead, a historic Matières Fécales runway at Place de la République, and Anrealage’s 25th anniversary collection of color-shifting electronic garments.
The SS27 season marks several transitions. According to Hypebae’s report, the calendar includes two creative-director debuts — Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven — while Vaccarello closes a ten-year run at Saint Laurent. Sacai, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber have returned to the schedule, as has Valentino, which showed in Rome for Fall/Winter 2026.
Matières Fécales, designed by Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose, became the first brand ever to stage a runway show at Place de la République, presenting “Ninety Nine Percent” on 99 models of color, many of them the designers’ loved ones. The collection, described by Hypebae as a tribute to immigrants and those pushed to the margins, moved from pristine white tailoring — including a heeled flip-flop made with Christian Louboutin — to punk-edged military pieces, closing with models carrying realistic billionaire figures.
Anrealage’s Kunihiko Morinaga marked the label’s 25th Paris show with “SKIN,” featuring LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that shift color and hue. The show built from bodysuits to armor-like evening dresses covered in thousands of E Ink scales that flickered through bursts of color before fading to gray.
Why These Shows Define the Season
The week captures a fashion industry in transition. Vaccarello’s exit ends one of the longest creative tenures among major Paris houses, while debuts at Courrèges and Carven signal a generational shift in creative leadership. According to Hypebae, Glenn Martens — who left Diesel after his final Milan show a week earlier — has now brought Maison Margiela back to the calendar, concentrating his output on a single house.
The Matières Fécales showing also carries weight beyond aesthetics: staging a show by a young label at a major public monument, built around a cast of models of color and a message about economic marginalization, is an unusual statement for a Paris calendar dominated by established luxury houses.
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The Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent Stories
Glenn Martens applied Margiela’s deconstruction language to home life, following a teaser clip of a silver teapot being squashed. Flattened silver appeared across a white dress as a standout piece, alongside womenswear in glossy retro florals and looks that split at the chest to reveal neutral layers or a cluster of silver blooms.
Vaccarello’s farewell collection coated SS27 looks entirely in gold — through lamé, brocade, lace and latex brushed with gold leaf — a nod to house founder Yves Saint Laurent’s attachment to the shade. The show, staged under the Eiffel Tower, drew Rosé, Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber, with Charlotte Gainsbourg performing during the final walk.
“The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion circuit reaches its grand finale in the city of love, with Paris Fashion Week bringing 67 shows and 34 presentations to the calendar.”
— Hypebae
What the Recap Leaves Out
The Hypebae roundup is an editorial selection of favorites rather than a complete review, and Paris Fashion Week SS27 is still ongoing. Shows from debuting designers Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven are not covered in the excerpt, and it is not yet clear who will succeed Vaccarello at Saint Laurent.
The Remaining Paris Calendar
The remainder of the Paris schedule will bring the Courrèges and Carven debut shows, plus returning labels including Sacai and Valentino. A successor to Vaccarello at Saint Laurent has not been announced. Readers can expect fuller season recaps once the week concludes.
Key Questions
When is Paris Fashion Week SS27 taking place?
The Spring/Summer 2027 edition is currently underway in Paris, running in September 2026 as the finale of the fashion month after Milan.
Why was Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent show significant?
It was his final collection after ten years as Saint Laurent’s creative lead. The all-gold show closed with Charlotte Gainsbourg singing beneath the Eiffel Tower.
What made the Matières Fécales show historic?
According to Hypebae, it was the first runway show ever held at Place de la République, presented on 99 models of color as a tribute to immigrants and marginalized communities.
What was unique about Anrealage’s collection?
The 25th-anniversary “SKIN” collection used LED digital skins and thousands of E Ink electronic-paper scales that shifted color and hue, fading to gray.
Who are the new creative directors this season?
Drew Henry debuts at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, per the show calendar cited by Hypebae.
Source: rss
